Hot Springs National Park

One of the perks of being in grad school is getting a month off for winter break. As soon as final exams wrapped up and I'd had a chance to pack and catch my breath, I hit the road for my return trip to Wisconsin. Instead of driving straight there, however, I decided to take the scenic route back.

My first major destination was Hot Springs, Arkansas, site of Hot Springs National Park. Although the city of Hot Springs is well past its prime, the national park, which encompasses Bathhouse Row and a portion of the Ouachita (pronounced Wash-ee-ta) Mountains, is as beautiful as ever.

The thermal springs here hold the distinction of being the first land set aside by the federal government for the preservation of a natural resource. This occurred in 1832 when Hot Springs Mountain was designated as a "national reservation." The area was upgraded to "national park" status in 1921.

I arrived as the sun was setting this past Saturday and saw the ornate bathhouses and resorts built to accomodate tourists in the late 1800s and first fifty years of the 20th century. Everyone from baseball players to mobsters flocked to Hot Springs to "take the waters," which were believed to have therapeutic properties.

Only two of the the bathhouses--the Quapaw and Buckstaff--are operational today. While some resorts like The Arlington remain open, others like Majestic Hotel are abandoned, creating an odd juxtaposition of luxury and dilapidation.

Tourism dropped off sharply midway through the 1900s when it became clear the healing properties of the waters were exaggerated. Nevertheless, residual tourism is still the city's main industry. This is reflected in the kitschy gangster museums and trinket shops that line Central Avenue across from the historic bathhouses

Since the baths close early in the evening, I decided to stay the night and try the waters for myself the next day. On Sunday, I rose early and walked the Grand Promenade running behind the bathhouses then hiked to the top of Hot Springs Mountain. Atop the mountain, I ascended the 210-foot observation tower with panoramic views of the Ouachita Mountains and the city below.

Once the baths opened at 10 a.m., I soaked for a couple hours in the soothing water. The Quapaw Baths have four pools ranging from 94 to 103 degrees. Most of the clientele was much older than me but was friendly and conversational. I struck up one conversation with a Serbian man from Chicago and another with a couple from Hot Springs that recommended I visit Eureka Springs, about three hours to the northeast.

Before leaving Hot Springs, I dined on beignets and grilled oysters at Andrew's, a New Orleans-themed restaurant across from the Quapaw Baths.