The stark, tree-less expanse is the hottest place in the world and the driest and lowest place in the Western Hemisphere. The deep basin between the Panamint Range to the west and the Grapevine, Funeral, and Black Mountains to the east is formed by tectonic plates inching apart millennia after millennia. Even though erosion from the mountains is filling in the basin (sediments accumulated in the valley are already over 9,000 feet deep), the valley is sinking faster than its rising.
I spent Saturday night in North Las Vegas, then began the two hour drive to the east entrance of Death Valley National Park before dawn Sunday morning. Once in the park, I started my visit by taking in panoramas of the valley from Dantes View, a dizzying 5,000 feet above Badwater Basin. Across Death Valley, the moon hung directly overhead 11,049-foot Telescope Peak, the highest point in the park.
Next, I continued on to famed Zabriskie Point, where the rolling, creviced earth is streaked in dusky browns and sulfuric yellows. The swaths of color are from minerals deposited in the soil. Then it was on to the Furnace Creek Visitors Center where I asked a ranger to recommend an off-the-beaten-trail hike. She suggested Sidewinder Canyon, which I traversed later that afternoon.
Turning south onto Badwater Road leaving the visitor center, I stopped at some of the valley's most iconic attractions in order of the road: Golden Canyon, Artists Palette, Devils Golf Course, Natural Bridge, and Badwater Basin. At Badwater Basin--the lowest point in North America at 282 feet below sea level--I wandered into the salt flats until I was farther out in the valley than any other person there.
I ended my day in Death Valley by taking the park ranger's advice and spending a few hours hiking Sidewinder Canyon and its three off-shooting slot canyons, then making a brief stop at the ruins of Ashford Mill. Despite the morbid name, Death Valley for me was thoroughly life-affirming.
I spent Saturday night in North Las Vegas, then began the two hour drive to the east entrance of Death Valley National Park before dawn Sunday morning. Once in the park, I started my visit by taking in panoramas of the valley from Dantes View, a dizzying 5,000 feet above Badwater Basin. Across Death Valley, the moon hung directly overhead 11,049-foot Telescope Peak, the highest point in the park.
Next, I continued on to famed Zabriskie Point, where the rolling, creviced earth is streaked in dusky browns and sulfuric yellows. The swaths of color are from minerals deposited in the soil. Then it was on to the Furnace Creek Visitors Center where I asked a ranger to recommend an off-the-beaten-trail hike. She suggested Sidewinder Canyon, which I traversed later that afternoon.
Turning south onto Badwater Road leaving the visitor center, I stopped at some of the valley's most iconic attractions in order of the road: Golden Canyon, Artists Palette, Devils Golf Course, Natural Bridge, and Badwater Basin. At Badwater Basin--the lowest point in North America at 282 feet below sea level--I wandered into the salt flats until I was farther out in the valley than any other person there.
I ended my day in Death Valley by taking the park ranger's advice and spending a few hours hiking Sidewinder Canyon and its three off-shooting slot canyons, then making a brief stop at the ruins of Ashford Mill. Despite the morbid name, Death Valley for me was thoroughly life-affirming.
